Would You Eat Snakehead? Hollywood Restaurant Turns Invasive Fish Into Must-Try Dish

HOLLYWOOD, Md. — It’s not every day a fish once labeled a threat to local waterways ends up as the star of a dinner plate.

But at The Local, that’s exactly what’s happening.

For some diners, the word “snakehead” still sparks hesitation. For others, it’s already a favorite; something they’ve caught, cooked and come to appreciate long before it appeared on a restaurant menu.

The BayNet visited The Local in Hollywood to speak with customers and owners as they sampled the restaurant’s limited-time snakehead dish.

“I’ve shot them with a bow and arrow. I’ve caught them with a fishing hook,” one customer said. “I eat them like any other fish.”

That same customer didn’t hesitate when asked whether snakehead could move beyond a limited-time feature.

“Yes… absolutely.”

A Fish With A Reputation

The Northern Snakehead (Channa argus) didn’t start out as a culinary curiosity.

With large mouths full of pointed teeth and eyes that sit near the top of flat, scaly heads, it’s easy to guess how snakeheads got their name. In the case of the Northern Snakehead, even the patterns along their scales are reminiscent of a boa or python.

Native to parts of Asia, the species first gained national attention in 2002 after being discovered in a pond in Crofton, Maryland. Its ability to survive in low-oxygen environments and aggressive feeding habits quickly earned it a reputation as an invasive “Frankenfish,” according to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.

Since then, the species has spread into waterways including the Potomac River and throughout Southern Maryland.

Today, officials with the Maryland Department of Natural Resources encourage anglers to catch and keep snakeheads as part of ongoing population control efforts.

And increasingly, that effort is finding its way onto local menus.

From Curiosity To Craving

At The Local, owner Meagan Cox said the decision to feature snakehead wasn’t driven by trend alone, but by curiosity and a love of cooking.

“I’m 34 and I just really love to cook,” Cox said. “My menu has always been based on what I like to eat and what I’m excited about at the time.”

With growing buzz around the fish, she decided to bring it into the kitchen and see how customers would respond.

“It’s honestly way better than people expect when they hear the name,” she said. “It’s really mild, not fishy at all, and has a firm texture that holds together nice when you cook it.”

Cox compared it to a familiar local staple.

“It reminds me a lot of rockfish, and even a little like chicken with how it eats.”

Local Waters, Local Tables

For Cox, sourcing matters just as much as preparation.

“We got ours from friends, Thomas Raley and Billy Sanner with Loose Knot Charters out on the Rappahannock River,” she said. “It’s fresh, it’s local, and that matters to me.”

That connection to the water is part of what’s fueling the fish’s rise in popularity across Southern Maryland, especially among anglers and bowfishing enthusiasts.

“I think a big part of it is curiosity,” Cox said. “The fact that people are out there bowfishing for it also makes it stand out.”

Winning Over Skeptics

If the name is what draws attention, the taste is what keeps people talking.

“At first people are a little unsure just because of the name,” Cox said. “But once they try it, they’re usually surprised how good it is.”

That reaction played out repeatedly among diners.

“Years ago, yeah, the name was a… turnoff,” another customer said. “But understanding it tastes good, I love it. The name doesn’t matter anymore.”

Asked whether the fish lives up to the growing hype, the customer didn’t hesitate.

“I think it’s better than most fish that are around here.”

More Than Just A Meal

Part of snakehead’s appeal may lie in its unlikely journey from invasive species to local delicacy.

“From what I understand, yeah it helps since it’s an invasive species,” Cox said. “So it’s kind of a win-win.”

That combination of environmental impact, local sourcing and unexpected flavor has turned what was once seen as a problem into an opportunity; both for anglers and for chefs.

For those still unsure, Cox keeps her advice simple: “I’d just say try it once. You never really know if you like something until you actually try it.”

A Bite Worth Taking

Whether it’s driven by curiosity, local pride or simply a good meal, snakehead is proving that first impressions don’t always tell the whole story.

At least in Southern Maryland, the fish with the fearsome name is earning something new — a place at the table.

---